วันอังคารที่ 30 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551
Sony Digital Cameras - Always On The Innovation Frontier
Sony was the first company to introduce digital cameras into the market. Today, Sony is one of the leaders in the digital revolution. Its historical journey began in 1946 in a small room. Let us see the rise of this company in this article.</p><p>Did you know that the first product manufactured by Sony was a rice-cooker! Yes, that is true. Started in 1946 by Masaru Ibuka and Akio Morita in a small room, Sony entered the market by making a rice cooker. It was in 1950, after the war had ended in Japan, did Sony create a tape recorder called the G-TYPE recorder. But it was not until the year 1957 that Sony was able to gain market leadership when it launched the world's first pocket transistor radio.</p><p>Up till this time, Sony was operating under the company name of Tokyo Tsushin Kogyo. However, when Morita planned to take the firm to the USA, he thought that the name should be much simpler so that people could easily pronounce it. Hence, the term 'Sony' was coined -derived from the combination of the Latin word "sonus" which means sound and "sonny" which means little son.</p><p>It was not easy for a Japanese firm to establish base in the USA. And, Sony being the first to do so, the company had to overcome quite a few challenges. However, despite all odds, Sony came up with several new products such as the Trinitron colored television in 1968 which became a landmark in design and technology at that time. In fact it was with the Trinitron that Sony entered the USA.</p><p>After this, one of the biggest hits of Sony, the Walkman was launched in the market. It was not very well received in the market by retailers since it did not have any recording capabilities. But after its lukewarm reception, the Walkman slowly picked up? and the rest as they say is history. Then, another revolution in audio technology was brought about in 1982 with the introduction of the Compact Disc (CD).</p><p>As far as digital cameras are concerned, Sony was again the first company to introduce a digital camera in the market. Way back in the year 1989, the Sony ProMavica MVC-5000 was launched. The camera provided a 720,000 pixel image which was considered to be the leader in image quality at that time.</p><p>Today, Sony is one of market leaders in the digital revolution. Always striving to be different from other players, Sony has led the market in terms of innovative technologies and high quality items. Not only has Sony surpassed others several times by being the first company to make several new products, but it has continuously strived to provide maximum services to its consumers. The company has launched several new services such as the ImageStation.com. This helps consumers to create, share and enjoy digital pictures and video. Also included as a part of this deal are free online albums and eCards, wherein members can share their favorite pictures as gifts, keepsakes and high-quality prints in a variety of sizes.</p><p>The latest digital cameras from Sony are:</p><p>Cyber Shot Enthusiast Series: These are powerful cameras with advanced optics and controls.</p><p>Cyber Shot Point and Shoot: Great cameras for snapshot photography.</p><p>Cyber Shot M: Full featured digital cameras with high quality video capture.</p><p>Mavica: Cameras which can record directly onto CDs and floppy disks.</p><p>Kevin Rockwell worked as a network TV cameraman for 20 years shooting news and sports. Now a devoted fan of digital photography and video he works to gather information, tips and news for digital camera users. Oh and he loves to shoot pictures of his kids playing sports. <a target="_new" href="http://great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html">http://great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html</a>
Infrared Photography and Big City Crime
One of the major problems of the larger cities of the word these days is crime. It appears that the larger the city the more-acceptable serious crime seems to be. If not because to the proliferation of serious crime then because the mindset of its citizens have been conditioned to accept the serious behaviour of a minority of its inhabitants.</p><p>So, how does this statement relate to infrared digital photography and the hobbyist or professional camera operator?</p><p>Not much escapes the all-seeing eye of the infrared camera of the police helicopter as it chases a carload of thieves down the freeway in the middle of the night. They will almost invariably be caught by the police when they exit their vehicle thanks to the thermal heat imaging of the helicopter's infrared camera.</p><p>Likewise, your own infrared daytime photography should let no entity go unnoticed. After all ? you've spent a lot of time setting up the shot and composing the image with just the right light, shutter speed and aperture. Your mindset should not be to simply accept inaccuracies and faults with your photograph, but to go that extra step to eliminate them altogether.</p><p>Just like the officers in the police chopper, why would you go to great lengths to capture that final important infrared image only to decide at the last second to give up the chase?</p><p>Digital infrared photography does have a few things that should be taken into account to ensure your image is as best as could be. The following combination of items will affect your image:</p><p>Light, Dust on the infrared filter, Type of infrared filter, Exposure setting, Aperture and Movement of the subject</p><p>The digital infrared images at Photo Shop Australia <a target="_new" href="http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/">http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/</a> have varying amounts of light, shutter speeds and apertures.</p><p>Low light may require longer exposure times if you can't get the aperture down low enough. This could have a dramatic effect on the final image ? especially if you are shooting a subject that may move even slightly.</p><p>Dust on the infrared filter will affect the image by producing "blind spots" in the final image. A close inspection of your infrared image in your photo editing software will reveal these. The blind spots can be smudged out of the image easily, but if you have hundreds then it may be more worthwhile to recompose the image than to edit the digital photo.</p><p>The type of infrared filter will also determine the outcome of the print. The Hoya R70 filter seems to be the best-priced for digital infrared photography.</p><p>Exposure and aperture settings can be played with until you find the best combination for your camera. But keep in mind that usually the higher the F-stop the longer the shutter speed required. So shooting a moving subject at a long shutter speed can result in unwanted effects.</p><p>Long shutter speeds (of up to 15 seconds or more) of trees on a windy day can actually produce the most spectacular effects.</p><p>We've all seen those long exposure night photographs of cars moving along a freeway. Long exposure daytime digital infrared imaging can produce amazing results too. You just have to get creative with your camera and subjects. Think of the possibilities!</p><p>Be aware that adding an infrared filter may have serious effects on your camera's electronics or lens. Consult your camera's operations manual or manufacturer before fitting any infrared filter to your camera, and never look through an infrared or any other type of filter with your own eyes.</p><p>Phill Petrovic is the owner of Photo Shop Australia at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/">http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/</a> Photo Shop Australia provides unique and amazing Australian nature photography including macro, infrared and landscape images of Australia. Photo Shop Australia also has a page of totally royalty free images available for free download for businesses and personal users.
Make More of Your Photos
We all want to make the most of our wedding photos and a new service from totalPIX makes it very easy with their beautifully bound photobooks.</p><p>Like all the best ideas, the idea of a photobook is very simple. Until now if you wanted to compile your own wedding album you first needed to get your photos printed. Unless you have a very expensive photo-quality printer, this meant getting them printed professionally either online or at a local photography outlet. Then they had to be put in the album and any captions you wanted either hand written or printed out and then added to the pages.</p><p>With a totalPIX photobook, you simply download the totalPIX software which includes several wedding templates, drag and drop your photos onto the template, add your captions and then upload everything to totalPIX.</p><p>A couple of days later, so long as you are in the UK, your photobook will arrive through the post, carefully packaged in perfect condition.</p><p>As commercial litho and digital printers, totalPIX have the latest Kodak digital presses so that every single photo, however small, is printed as though it were part of a half million run mail order catalogue. In fact the look and quality of the internal pages of a photobook is quite similar to the best catalogues although of course the binding is attractive and durable as befits a wedding book that will last a lifetime.</p><p>Very often we have different types of wedding photos, there are the formal ones, with everyone demur and poised at the church or registry office and these make a wonderful souvenir of the day. But often there are more informal images we want to keep, perhaps of the party afterwards or just simply wonderful photos that capture a special moment or expression. With totalPIX photobooks, there's no problem. Create a formal photobook of the day for that special momento and another more informal one that perhaps gives more of the atmosphere of the occasion. And what about a record of the stag and hen nights, or perhaps not!</p><p>The ability to add captions makes a photobook very personal. Add the names of guests, the date and venue, whatever is important to you.</p><p>Photobooks can be ordered in any quantity from one upwards, and once you have the finished photobook on your computer, so long as you do not delete it, you can re-send it to totalPIX at any time for extra copies for friends and relations.</p><p>A major feature of the totalPIX photobook service is its ease of use. If you can use a digital camera, you will find creating a photobook a doddle. The software includes a basic image cropping and manipulation tool if you do not have one already installed. As a precaution against a poor outcome, the software will only accept photos that have the quality and resolution to print well, after all the best press in the world cannot create an award winning image from a poor quality one.</p><p>For full details of totalPIX wedding photobooks, please visit us at <a target="_new" href="http://www.totalpix.co.uk/photobooks.htm">www.totalpix.co.uk</a></p><p>Sally Kavanagh is a keen digital photographer and is an advisor to <a target="_new" href="http://www.totalpix.co.uk">totalPIX</a>
Getting Your Photos Ready for Sharing
One of the main reasons people buy digital cameras is so they can share their photos with others. Even if you are just going to print your photos for yourself, you will want them to look their best. Here are some tips on getting your images ready for sharing or printing.</p><p>1. ORGANIZE YOUR PHOTOS</p><p>Delete the ones you don't like or those that are near duplicates of others. No sense in clogging up your hard drive or CDs with junk. Use a good photo management software program like ACDSEE 7, Adobe Photoshop Album 2.0 or Jasc Paint Shop Photo Album 5 to view, organize and name your images. These programs also let you batch rename so you can give more descriptive file names to a group of photos at the same time. You can add key words and tags to make finding your photos easier. Be detailed in your photo descriptions, not just "John and Laurie." You'll probably have hundreds of photos of your kids and it will be harder to find the one you're looking for. Better to say "John and Laurie waterskiing on Lake Powell, May 2004."</p><p>2. BACK UP YOUR ORIGINALS</p><p>Mistakes can happen. It is a good idea to back up all your images to a CD before you start editing or changing them. That way you always have the original to go back to if you accidentally save over an image or made changes to a photo that you later decide you don't like. CDs hold lots of photos, making it cheap insurance.</p><p>3. ROTATE IMAGES</p><p>Trying to look at a sideways photo is annoying. Use your photo management or editing software to rotate photos as needed. And if you have any images that are a little crooked, you can fix that using your editing software. Most photo editors have an automatic "straighten" function, or you can manually rotate the image a few degrees to straighten the horizon line.</p><p>4. REMOVE RED-EYE</p><p>Even with your digital camera's auto red-eye reduction function, your subject's eyes may still have red-eye. Use your photo editing software to remove it. Zoom in on the eyes and it will be easier for you to correct the red-eye. I've tried a number of red-eye correction tools and find that the one that comes with ACDSEE 7's photo editor is among the best. It zeros in just on the red eye and doesn't darken the surrounding eye area like some other software does.</p><p>5. CROP YOUR PHOTOS</p><p>Crop out unnecessary or distracting backgrounds and focus in on your subject. Most photo editing programs will keep the aspect ratio, so when you draw a box around the area you want to focus on it will crop it as 4x6 or whatever you have specified. That way you won't end up with an odd size photo. Kodak EasyShare Gallery also has a very good cropping tool for maintaining the proper print size. It comes with its free photo editor.</p><p>6. ADJUST LIGHTING AND CONTRAST</p><p>Some of your photos may have come out washed out or too dark. You can automatically adjust the color, brightness and contrast of your photos. The better programs like Photoshop Album 2.0, Jasc and ACDSEE also have tools for making manual adjustments for fine-tuning. Be careful not to overdo it, though, or your picture could come out grainy.</p><p>7. PREPARE TO SHARE</p><p>There are a number of ways to share your images. Several programs, like Roxio Photo Suite 7, ACDSEE7, Photoshop Album and Paint Shop Photo Album allow you to create digital photo albums or slide shows, complete with music, transitions and captions. You can burn them to CD or resize and optimize for emailing directly from the program.</p><p>Online photo services such as PhotoWorks, Shutterfly, Snapfish and Kodak EasyShare Gallery also let you share your photos on line, for free. You simply upload your images to their server into your own photo albums and add captions if you wish. Then email your friends with a link to your albums. With most of the online services your photos stay on their servers as long as you have an account with them, for free. Signing up for an account is free, you only pay for photos you choose to purchase.</p><p>For hardcore photo sharers, there are also dedicated photo sharing applications such as PiXPO v1.5.0, which lets you share photos right off your hard drive. This is a peer to peer software application that allows you to connect directly with your friends and family to share and view pictures online with no uploads. Unlike traditional photo sharing services, you have unlimited storage and you don't have to upload your photos to a distant server or wait for friends to log onto some photo sharing site. The application is easy to install and use and it's inexpensive, around $30. PC Magazine rated it an Editor's Choice in their January 3, 2005 issue.</p><p>Valerie Goettsch publishes the digital photography website <a target="_new" href="http://www.digitalphotos101.com">http://www.digitalphotos101.com</a> featuring reviews of photo editing and album software and digital photo printing services.
Digital Camera Basics
Digital Camera Basics? The Vocabulary</p><p>Shopping for a digital camera can be a difficult task considering the sheer number of choices out there. The number of manufacturers, models, and price ranges that need to be sorted out make the process difficult enough, but throw in all the buzz-words that need to be understood, and even a short list of cameras can become difficult to analyze.</p><p>This Tech Tip will take a look at a few key words that may come up when researching a digital camera, and will hopefully reduce the headaches associated with the process.</p><p>Pixels</p><p>Digital images are composed of thousands or millions of tiny squares called picture elements, or pixels for short. Each square has its own color assigned to it, and the compilation of all of these little colored squares allows for images to appear smooth when viewed at original size. If an image is magnified several times, the appearance of the pixels can become more obvious, and at high magnifications each colored pixel can be distinguished individually.</p><p>Megapixels</p><p>Basically, the term megapixel means one million pixels, and it is used to describe the maximum number of pixels found in an image produced by a digital camera. It is generally the criteria used to classify cameras, and checking the Geeks.com selection (http://www.geeks.com/products.asp?cat=CAM) shows that their cameras are all sorted into ranges of megapixels (MP).</p><p>Many people assume that because cameras are marketed so heavily by their megapixel specification, that this is the single most important criteria when choosing a camera. More megapixels do not necessarily equal better images, they mean larger images (both in physical size and in file size).</p><p>The megapixel count is achieved by multiplying the number of pixels in one horizontal line by the number of pixels in one vertical line. So, if a camera can produce images at a maximum resolution of 1600 by 1200 pixels, it is a 1.92 megapixel (1,920,000 pixel) camera.</p><p>It is not fair to assume that the images from the 5.0 MP Kodax CX7525 are automatically better than those from the 4.0 MP Kodak CX7430 strictly based on their megapixel count. All it means is that the maximum image size of the CX7525 is 2560 x 1920 and the maximum image size of the LS743 is 2408 x 1758. Many other features in the cameras can impact the quality of the images they produce, and may be far more important for the typical user to consider than the maximum overall size of each image.</p><p>Larger image size may do nothing for a user who only wants to view images on his computer screen, or for use on the web, but the higher megapixel images are important for those looking to make prints of their images. Generally, higher pixel counts in an image translate to the ability to create larger prints.</p><p>Sensors ? CMOS and CCD</p><p>Digital cameras use a small sensor to capture the image before transferring it to flash memory for storage. Equivalent to a negative in a film camera, these sensors come in a variety of sizes, with most being between 20 and 40 millimeters squared. There are two types of sensors that may be found in cameras: CCD (Charged Couple Device) and CMOS (Complementary Metal Oxide Semiconductor). CMOS sensors are usually found in cheaper cameras and offer lower image quality than a CCD sensor that would probably be found in a more expensive camera.</p><p>There is an exception to the rule that CCD is better than CMOS, and that is with the Digital SLR-type (Single Lens Reflex) cameras. They use a much larger sensor (greater than 300 millimeters squared) and can provide excellent image quality, but the quality does come with a much higher price tag.</p><p>Zoom ? Optical and Digital</p><p>Most digital cameras offer some sort of zoom, but it is important to identify which type is being provided. Optical zoom functions just as on a film camera, where the lens physically moves to produce the magnification. Digital zoom uses circuitry to enlarge a portion of the standard sized image and crops the content outside of the zoomed area. The quality of images produced using digital zoom suffer due to the nature of the process, and optical zoom is a far more desirable feature.</p><p>The price of a camera with optical zoom may be a good deal more than one with digital zoom, but the quality of the images cannot be compared. The Kodak CX7330 and the Kodak CX7300 are comparable cameras in many regards, but the CX7300 features only digital zoom, while the CX7330 features both optical and digital zoom for about $30 more.</p><p>Memory - Digital Film</p><p>The two important things to consider when choosing flash memory for a digital camera is that the right format is chosen, and that a quality module is chosen that can record quickly and be ready for the next picture as soon as possible. A photographer looking to snap a rapid series of high resolution images on their Kodak DX7440 has many options in SD (secure digital) memory to choose from but, they would be far better off with something like the SanDisk Ultra II SD card capable of a sustained write speed of 9 MB/s, than with a generic SD card capable of a burst speed rated at only 2.5MB/s.</p><p>Aliasing</p><p>Even if you think you know the basic definition of this term, it may seem confusing in the context of digital cameras. Aliasing refers to the appearance of jagged edges generally seen on diagonal or curved surfaces in images. This effect is caused by the fact that all pixels are square, and that even non-square shapes in an image need to be created with square components.</p><p>The solution to aliasing is not surprisingly called "anti-aliasing." Through software, the edges generally affected by aliasing are blended and the jagged appearance can be made much smoother. Video game enthusiasts may be familiar with anti-aliasing and the impact the varying levels of it can have on the overall performance of game play. Although the technology is similar, the personal importance of having the best digital images possible makes applying anti-aliasing just about a no-brainer.</p><p>Aspect Ratio</p><p>Aspect ratio describes the shape of a digital image, or any image for that matter, where the first number represents the width of the image and the second number represents the height. People may be familiar with the term as applied to televisions (as 16:9 wide screen televisions are now all the rage to replace traditional 4:3 units), and the concept is the same here.</p><p>Standard film cameras generally use an aspect ratio of 3:2, but most digital cameras have adopted a 4:3 aspect ratio so that images better fit on a standard computer monitor. Monitors with typical resolutions of 800x600, 1024x768, or 1280x960, for example, all have an aspect ratio of 4:3, so it only makes sense to produce images that will fit well on these screens. Although images can be manipulated to print on any size paper, special photo-quality paper is available to allow for high-quality prints to be made at the correct aspect ratio.</p><p>Connectivity</p><p>The pictures taken by a digital camera have to be extracted by some means in order to get them onto a computer, or perhaps directly onto a printer. In general, cameras provide a cable to connect to a computer either via serial, USB, USB 2.0, or Firewire.</p><p>Serial ports are just about extinct at this point due to their slow connection speeds and lack of plug-and-play support, but some older or lower-end models may still offer serial connectivity.</p><p>USB may be the most common form of connectivity, and if speed is important to you, look specifically for USB 2.0 support, as it is up to 40 times faster.</p><p>Some specialized cameras may take advantage of the high speed Firewire protocol for connecting to a computer. Just about all modern computers come with at least a pair of USB ports, but not all computers include Firewire. Firewire capabilities can be added to any computer with an available PCI slot by using an expansion card such as this one.</p><p>Some cameras don't require any cables at all, as they can transmit the images to a PC wirelessly. The Concord EyeQ is such a camera that utilizes Bluetooth technology in lieu of wires.</p><p>Even with all the modes of transmitting images listed so far, one other method may serve as a universal replacement for all of them. Many people find flash memory card readers to be a quick and convenient alternative to using the camera's native means of connecting. You simply remove the memory from the slot on the camera and pop it into the appropriate slot on the reader, and then the computer system can access the card like a local disk drive.</p><p>Final Words</p><p>Every high-tech field has its own set of specific buzz words, and digital photography is no different. Although by no means an exhaustive resource of digital photography terminology, this Tech Tip provides insight to a few key terms worth knowing in order to make shopping for a digital camera just a bit easier.</p><p>Jason Kohrs<br> <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips-05MAY05.htm">Digital camera basics</a>, <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips-05MAY05.htm">how to buy a digital camera</a>, and <a target="_new" href="http://www.geeks.com/pix/techtips-05MAY05.htm">digital camera buying guide</a>.
Bracketing and How To Use Tt Correctly...
What Is... Exposure Bracketing</p><p>Exposure bracketing is a simple technique professional photographers use to ensure they properly expose their pictures, especially in challenging lighting situations.</p><p>When you expose for a scene, your camera's light meter will select an aperture / shutter speed combination that it believes will give a properly exposed picture.</p><p>Exposure bracketing means that you take two more pictures: one slightly under-exposed (usually by dialing in a negative exposure compensation, say -1/3EV), and the second one slightly over-exposed (usually by dialing in a positive exposure compensation, say +1/3EV), again according to your camera's light meter.</p><p>The reason you do this is because the camera might have been 'deceived' by the light (too much or too little) available and your main subject may be over- or under-exposed. By taking these three shots, you are making sure that if this were ever the case, then you would have properly compensated for it.</p><p>As an example, say you are taking a scene where there is an abundance of light around your main subject (for example, at the beach on a sunny day, or surrounded by snow). In this case, using Weighted-Average metering, your camera might be 'deceived' by the abundance of light and expose for it by closing down the aperture and/or using a faster shuter speed (assuming ISO is constant), with the result that the main subject might be under-exposed. By taking an extra shot at a slight over-exposure, you would in fact be over-exposing the surroundings, but properly exposing the main subject.</p><p>Another example would be the case where the surrounding might be too dark, and the camera exposes for the lack of light by either opening up the aperture and/or using a slower shutter speed (assuming ISO is constant), then the main subject might be over-exposed. By taking an extra shot at a slight under-exposure, you would in fact be under-exposing the surroundings, but properly exposing the main subject.</p><p>Now, most digital cameras have auto exposure bracketing, meaning that if you select that option before taking your shot, the camera will automatically take three shots for you: one which it thinks it has perfectly exposed; a second one sightly under-exposed; and the third one slightly over-exposed.</p><p>When should you use exposure bracketing? Anytime you feel the scene is a challenging one (too much highlights or shadows) as far as lighting is concerned, e.g. sunsets are usually better taken slightly under-exposed so use exposure bracketing there, or whenever you want to be sure you don't improperly expose a fabulous shot.</p><p>Remember, you are not using film anymore, so there are really no wasted shots (unless you are severely constrained by the size of your storage media).</p><p>Digital Dodging & Burning</p><p>Should you delete the extra shots right away? No, if storage permits, keep all three shots until you get home and upload them to your PC and into an image editing software, such as Photoshop. By using the layers functionality of Photoshop (or similar functionality of another image editing software), you can load all three shots into different layers and then carefully erase the under-exposed or over-exposed part of one or more layers to end up with a final shot where both the main subject and the surroundings are properly exposed!</p><p>This Photoshop functionality allows you to shoot in very extreme lighting situations where there are many parts in different intensity of light and shadows such that you are losing details in the highlights and shadows. In this case, you might need more than two extra shots to obtain details in the different parts. Without moving the camera (a tripod is essential here), take as many shots as you need, exposing for the different parts you want details to be visible. Then you would load them all up into Photoshop, each into its own layer, and by erasing the under- and over-exposed parts in each layer (granted, this equivalent of film 'dodging' and 'burning' can be a very tedious and challenging task in itself, but done properly it can be well worth the effort), you can end up with an 'impossible' shot where every part of the cave is properly exposed.</p><p>Used judiciously, exposure bracketing is a simple technique that can ensure proper exposure of a difficult lighting situation. Make sure you get a camera with good manual <a target="_new" href="http://www.bargainfindsonebay.com/Canon.html">Bracketing control</a></p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.bargainfindsonebay.com/Canon.html">Canon PowerShot S70 - Bracketing control</a>
Tiny Cameras, Big Pictures and Make Your Photos Great!
The path to picking a digital camera usually leads to a fork in the road. On one side is the small camera that's convenient to carry but doesn't take the sharpest pictures; on the other, a camera that crisply catches all the details and color but is comparatively bulky. Sometimes it's our fault that our photos didn't work out; we didn't notice distracting, extraneous objects in the image or forgot to ask for a certain pose. Sometimes it's the camera's fault; as impressive as many of today's cameras are, they're not perfect. And sometimes it's no one's fault; some lighting situations are just plain impossible to control.</p><p>Fortunately, digital photography's marriage of the camera and the PC has made it easier than ever to get our pictures to match our memories, or even to improve upon them. To do so, you need three things: image-editing software, an understanding of what you can do with that software, and the vision to see what needs to be done to fix your photos.</p><p>One way to overcome these problems and still have all the convenience of a pocket sized camera is to learn how to edit photos so that they end up looking professional even though the equipment used wasn't high end professional photo taking equipment. Go to http://www.abcphotoediting.com and check out their simple to read e-book that takes you through step by step exactly how to sharpen your images, take out any distractions from the photo, improve the lighting, or anything else you'd like to do. This e- book is easy to understand, and very good value!
วันจันทร์ที่ 29 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551
Digital Camera Bags - Purchasing and Using
Some compact cameras are small enough to fit in your handbag or pocket, but I still recommend purchasing a camera case. It will save your camera from unnecessary wear and tear.</p><p>What do you put in your camera bag? I place my camera, spare batteries and memory cards, a cleaning kit and any extra lenses or filters I want to take on the day into my camera bag.</p><p>Don't pack everything in your camera bag every time you go out to take photos. Travel as light as possible. Maybe purchase two camera bags - a large camera case and a smaller camera bag for those 'pack light' times.</p><p>Clean your camera bag occasionally. Dust can accumulate and could cause problems with your camera and equipment by accumulating on your lens.</p><p>Keep your camera away from luggage handlers! Most airlines allow one carry-on PLUS a personal item. A camera bag usually qualifies as your personal item.</p><p>What kinds of camera bags are there?</p><p>A weatherproof top loading shoulder camera bag is the best and most versatile option, because you can place the camera case on the ground and open the lid to retrieve your equipment.</p><p>The size of camera bag you purchase will depend on the size of your digital camera. If you have a larger camera with lots of accessories, consider purchasing a larger camera bag that has wheels. The wheels allow you to take your bag with you easily rather than lugging it around over your shoulder. Some bags with wheels can double as backpacks for when you're hiking.</p><p>If your digital camera is a small pocket model, a fanny pack for just your camera will work really well. Keep the pack over your stomach (rather than your lower back) if you're concerned about theft.</p><p>Purchasing a camera bag</p><p>When purchasing a new camera case, it's important to note the following:</p><p>- Avoid brand name camera bags. If you have a more expensive camera, try to purchase a camera bag that does not LOOK like a camera bag. Thieves are always on the lookout for bags that look like they contain valuable equipment and nothing says 'valuable inside' more than a camera case with a camera maker's brand plastered all around the outside. Purchase a camera case that's a little less conspicuous - they're usually less expensive as well.</p><p>- Think of the accessories you'll place in a camera bag before purchasing. Do you have any other equipment (such as a card reader) you might want to take with your camera? What about accessories you are thinking about purchasing in the near future?</p><p>- A camera bag with moveable padded inserts will be more versatile than one without because you can customize the inside of the camera bag to your particular camera and accessories.</p><p>- Buy a camera case with lots of pockets and zippered compartments. This way, you can store used digital camera batteries in one pocket and unused batteries in another. The same with your memory cards... I label my pockets with labels like "Batteries - Used" so I can quickly find the correct pocket while out and about.</p><p>- Watch out for the prices of camera cases (and other accessories) when purchasing a camera case at the same time as your camera. Many retailers lower the price of their cameras to compete, and increase their accessory prices to compensate.</p><p>David Peterson has a great love of photography and has created a series of free tips at <a target="_new" href="http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/">http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/</a> to help digital photography users everywhere take better photos.
Move Up to the World of the Digital SLR Camera
A digital SLR camera or a single lens reflex (SLR) camera is one of the most popular cameras amongst photographers today. These cameras not only provide high quality images but the photographer can also largely control how he wants the final product to look like. Hence, people who are extremely fond of clicking pictures have a great time while using a SLR camera. If you have a creative spark in you then you will want to consider one of these at some point. I am using a Canon Rebel right now but the Nikon F6 is next on my horizon of my purchases. These are moving into the 8 mp and up range now so the quality is quite good.</p><p>The SLR is not cheap at all. The price historically started at about $5,000 ? which is very steep. So, only those who are either professionals or wannabes purchased an SLR for themselves. Nowadays however, in order to make the SLR available to a larger number of photographers, companies such as Canon and Nikon have come up with SLRs falling in the price range of around $1000 without extra lenses.</p><p>What is it that attracts people to an SLR ? One of the main reasons is that an SLR produces pictures which are of much higher quality than point-and-shoot cameras. The contrast and color are extremely good since the lenses used in an SLR are of very good quality. It is an old maxim in the photography world that much of the quality in your images comes from the glass you put in front of the camera. The better the glass the better the photo, it worked in the film days and it still works in the digital age. The camera is important but don't skimp on the lens.</p><p>The photographer can change the lenses in an SLR, depending upon the shot that he/she plans to take. For example, a wide angle lens is used to take pictures of landscapes such as animals in the wild while telephoto lenses help to take extremely detailed pictures of small objects. Thus, one can pick and choose according to the environmental needs. Today some of the manufacturers have started building in image stabilization to their lenses. This really helps when taking long focal length images. While it uses additional power it can be extremely useful.</p><p>In addition to the above, the creative opportunity available to the photographer is much more in a SLR than a regular camera. This is because of the fact that a SLR has a lower contrast and image sharpening features. Hence, the photographer can do a lot of editing on his own to get the kind of effect that he desires. This can be viewed as a disadvantage as well by those who are not truly photo enthusiasts. So, for you guys, a point-and-shoot camera is the best option as not only is it cheaper but also adjusts things automatically.</p><p>Since a SLR is comparitvely more expensive than other digital cameras, it is very important that you get yourself a proper insurance for the camera. Especially if you plan to travel a lot with your SLR, insurance is extremely important. And also make sure that damage protection does form a part of the insurance deal as some insurance policies do not provide it. So, read the fine print before signing on the dotted line!</p><p>Kevin Rockwell worked as a network TV cameraman for 20 years shooting news and sports. Now a devoted fan of digital photography and video he works to gather information, tips and news for digital camera users. Oh and he loves to shoot pictures of his kids playing sports.</p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html">http://www.great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html</a>
Light and Depth of Field
With such a fantastic device as the digital camera for the recreation of magic in arts, a lot of care needs to be taken so as to maintain the perfection of the end product. This perfection is not only obtained by the artistic feeling of the photographer but also with the intricate knowledge of every minute aspect of the medium of creation of art (in this case the digital camera). And these minute aspects play a vast role in defining the ultimate perfection. The digital camera, light and depth of field are one such factor that would come into light in this subsequent discussion. Basically, the depth of field is a measurement of the acceptable sharpness. Yet this is very strictly a personal preference, and varies from person to person.</p><p>Thus to be more formal, the depth of field can be defined as the area inside an image that demonstrates an ample sharpness that can be considered more or less in focus. So the depth of field is the range of distance, measured along the lens axis, as per which the image is caused to be sufficiently well and sharp in the photograph. The rest is as follows!</p><p>The depth of field defines the zone where all elements show clearly from foreground to background. Three factors control the depth of field in an image, they are the distance of the subject, the focal length, and the aperture used to capture the photograph. For people using compact digital cameras, one of the subjects of out of the ordinary interest is the depth of field because depth of field is more easily said than done to control with a compact digital camera than with earlier conventional analog film cameras. The minute imaging sensors of compact cameras need the use of short focal lengths, and this in sequence gives these compact digital cameras an extraordinarily long depth of field when compared to other cameras. Thereby, with intent obtaining a shallow depth of field is more complicated.</p><p>Considering a general acceptable fact, the depth of field decreases, as the image gets nearer to the camera. This means that as the focal point reaches closer to the lens, the achievable scope of the depth of field ebbs. On the other side, if the image is far enough distant from the camera, and for digital cameras, this must not be very far, the depth of field approaches out to infinity. Another important point to be noted is that the depth of field is proportional to the lens opening.</p><p>Having discussed the above important aspects of the light and depth of field of a digital camera, it is clear that the minute details make such great subjects whose knowledge becomes equally important for making appropriate use of the fantastic device, the digital camera! And the digital camera, light and depth of field comes out to be such important factors that can make all the difference if a photographer remains oblivious about this knowledge. A small factor thus can meal a big divergence!</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Jakob Jelling is the founder of <a href="http://www.snapjunky.com" target="_new">http://www.snapjunky.com</a>. Visit his digital camera guide and learn how to take better pictures with your digicam.
Digital Camera Memory - An Introduction
The digital camera is essentially a computer-based device, whose core is controlled by the computer. And as a result the photographs are stored in a location called memory. Now, this concept is or paramount importance in discussing digital camera. Strictly speaking, digital camera memory is where digital pictures are stored inside the camera. The digital camera memory is an essential and often a very neglected and overlooked section of equipments for digital photography and camera. There are many types of memory available for digital cameras, and it is a good practice to mull over what type of memory a camera uses before buying a digital camera. This discussing is aimed in revealing some of this relevant information!</p><p>Knowledge of the digital camera memory is very essential for using such a camera and capturing photographs. The most common form of such memory is a memory card. These are reusable, have a limited capacity and can always be installed when required in excess. A person needs to be well informed about enough memory available for taking photographs. And accordingly make arrangements. Generally, digital cameras come available with low capacity memory cards, and it is a wise purchase to acquire higher capacity memory cards in order to budget for an additional card for later use.</p><p>With the increment of a camera mega pixel counts, it becomes essential to use higher capacity memory cards. Some of the small sized cards are for example the 64 megabyte cards and larger ones are like 1-gigabyte cards or combinations of megabyte cards.</p><p>Digital camera memory is available in many shapes and facade depending on the type of digital camera that is being used and even and the number of pictures that are required to be stored in the digital camera memory. These different types of memory are solely dependant upon the requirements of the digital camera, like for example a camera using compact flash type 1, requires the use of compact flash type 1 digital camera memory. Other examples of types of digital camera memory are Compact Flash Digital Camera Memory. It is suitable for rugged and rough handling and is also resilient for incessant usage. This is also small in size to assist better handling and flexibility. What more, it is cheap and anyone can afford it!</p><p>Generally, the sizes of a digital camera memory are as follows, 64 MB, 128 MB, 256 MB, 512 MB, and 1 GIG. Again, the digital camera memory depends upon the file format used to store photographs upon and the compression used by the manufacturer when storing digital images into memory.</p><p>Coming to the concluding portion, it is recommended to get hold of one 256 megabyte or two 128 megabyte cards for a 3-5 mega pixel compact digital camera. For higher resolution photographs, 512 megabyte and 1 gigabyte cards are also available. These are some of the guidelines for revealing the true facts about the different digital camera memories and their secrets. Summing up in a few words, with such a powerful tool as the digital camera, a proper selection of memory can help a person achieve the glorious tasks of freezing a precious moment from life for eternity!</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Jakob Jelling is the founder of <a href="http://www.snapjunky.com" target="_new">http://www.snapjunky.com</a>. Visit his digital camera guide and learn how to take better pictures with your digicam.
Infrared Photography and Big City Crime
One of the major problems of the larger cities of the word these days is crime. It appears that the larger the city the more-acceptable serious crime seems to be. If not because to the proliferation of serious crime then because the mindset of its citizens have been conditioned to accept the serious behaviour of a minority of its inhabitants.</p><p>So, how does this statement relate to infrared digital photography and the hobbyist or professional camera operator?</p><p>Not much escapes the all-seeing eye of the infrared camera of the police helicopter as it chases a carload of thieves down the freeway in the middle of the night. They will almost invariably be caught by the police when they exit their vehicle thanks to the thermal heat imaging of the helicopter's infrared camera.</p><p>Likewise, your own infrared daytime photography should let no entity go unnoticed. After all ? you've spent a lot of time setting up the shot and composing the image with just the right light, shutter speed and aperture. Your mindset should not be to simply accept inaccuracies and faults with your photograph, but to go that extra step to eliminate them altogether.</p><p>Just like the officers in the police chopper, why would you go to great lengths to capture that final important infrared image only to decide at the last second to give up the chase?</p><p>Digital infrared photography does have a few things that should be taken into account to ensure your image is as best as could be. The following combination of items will affect your image:</p><p>Light, Dust on the infrared filter, Type of infrared filter, Exposure setting, Aperture and Movement of the subject</p><p>The digital infrared images at Photo Shop Australia <a target="_new" href="http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/">http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/</a> have varying amounts of light, shutter speeds and apertures.</p><p>Low light may require longer exposure times if you can't get the aperture down low enough. This could have a dramatic effect on the final image ? especially if you are shooting a subject that may move even slightly.</p><p>Dust on the infrared filter will affect the image by producing "blind spots" in the final image. A close inspection of your infrared image in your photo editing software will reveal these. The blind spots can be smudged out of the image easily, but if you have hundreds then it may be more worthwhile to recompose the image than to edit the digital photo.</p><p>The type of infrared filter will also determine the outcome of the print. The Hoya R70 filter seems to be the best-priced for digital infrared photography.</p><p>Exposure and aperture settings can be played with until you find the best combination for your camera. But keep in mind that usually the higher the F-stop the longer the shutter speed required. So shooting a moving subject at a long shutter speed can result in unwanted effects.</p><p>Long shutter speeds (of up to 15 seconds or more) of trees on a windy day can actually produce the most spectacular effects.</p><p>We've all seen those long exposure night photographs of cars moving along a freeway. Long exposure daytime digital infrared imaging can produce amazing results too. You just have to get creative with your camera and subjects. Think of the possibilities!</p><p>Be aware that adding an infrared filter may have serious effects on your camera's electronics or lens. Consult your camera's operations manual or manufacturer before fitting any infrared filter to your camera, and never look through an infrared or any other type of filter with your own eyes.</p><p>Phill Petrovic is the owner of Photo Shop Australia at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/">http://www.PhotoShopAustralia.com/</a> Photo Shop Australia provides unique and amazing Australian nature photography including macro, infrared and landscape images of Australia. Photo Shop Australia also has a page of totally royalty free images available for free download for businesses and personal users.
วันอาทิตย์ที่ 28 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551
Digital Cameras Demystified
Demystifying Digital Camera Jargon</p><p>Want to buy a digital camera but confused by the sales jargon? Talk of pixels, LCDs and ELVs, digital zoom verses optical zoom driving you crazy? Then stress no more, here are all the basic terms and their meanings in simple, easily understood terms.</p><p>Mega pixels:</p><p>Pixels are just the tiny dots that make up a digital picture. Each mega pixel is a million pixels so the more mega pixels a camera has the more dots will make up your picture. The more mega pixels or dots your picture has, the better quality it will be. Digital cameras can be bought with one to six mega pixels. The higher mega pixel your camera is the larger size photo you can take and the more you can enlarge and print photos without sacrificing picture quality.</p><p>LCD</p><p>LCD means Liquid Crystal Display or in simple terms, it is the display screen used in digital cameras. These screens vary in size depending on the camera. It allows you to preview what you are photographing by giving you a 'through-the-lens-view'. It can also be used to preview photos, delete unwanted photos and some will allow you to magnify your photos to look at details.</p><p>Optical Viewfinder</p><p>This is simply the viewfinder you look through to take your photos (if you aren't using the LCD screen) as you would with any camera. They will show the full area of what you are photographing but the only drawback is they won't show you if the picture is in focus. Many cameras have an ELV ?Electronic View Finder, instead of an Optical Viewfinder, which shows the same view as on your LCD screen but has the advantage of screening out the sun. You can also see your camera settings and functions in the ELV just as you would on the LCD.</p><p>Digital and Optical Zoom</p><p>Digital zoom allows you to enlarge the size of a photo by doubling the size of the pixels. The problem with this is that as the pixels are made larger they become fuzzier thus leading to a decrease in photo quality. An optical zoom however actually magnifies the subject of the photo so retains the quality.</p><p>Memory Cards/Sticks</p><p>Memory cards/sticks are just the storage device for digital cameras. Most cameras have a small amount of built in memory but if you want to be able to store a reasonable number of photos you will need to purchase some extra memory. Memory comes in a range of sizes (measured in megabytes or gigabytes) and the more memory you want, the higher the cost. Ensure the memory you buy is compatible with your camera.</p><p>Obviously there is a lot more to know about digital cameras but understanding these basic terms will go a long way toward helping you find the digital camera that is right for you without being lost in the digital dialogue spouted by salespeople.</p><p>Raelene Hall is lives in Outback Western Australia. She has written non-fiction articles for magazines, newspapers and the Net on a variety of topics, including education, Outback life, communications, nature, spirituality, families, technology, and the environment. Raelene is a regular columnist for a regional newspaper. Contact Raelene at <a href="mailto:nedscreekstn@bigpond.com">nedscreekstn@bigpond.com</a> or check out her website at <a target="_new" href="http://www.outbackwriter.com">http://www.outbackwriter.com</a>
Nikon Digital Cameras - Cool(pix) and Functional
Even though Nikon entered the camera world by 1948, today its digital cameras are well known everywhere. The company started small but always dreamed big. Here is a historical review of Nikon.</p><p>Nikon was one of the late starters in the camera world. It established itself after the end of the World War II with the launch of the Nikon I in the year 1948. It took Nikon three years to develop this camera. From its launch, the Nikon I had a lot of problems. This was rectified by the company and another model called the Nikon M was introduced in 1949 which was well accepted by the market.</p><p>During the 1950's, Leica (a German make) had the best 35 mm rangefinder cameras. Nikon wanted to surpass Leica, and its pursuit, it came up with the Nikon SP in 1957. This was considered to be one of the best Nikon cameras available at that time.</p><p>After this, Nikon continued to innovate and launched the Nikon F single lens reflex (SLR) camera in 1959. The Nikon F set the industry standard for SLR's and became the hot favorite of photo journalists and professional photographers at that time. With the Nikon F, Nikon managed to surpass Leica and became the market leader in this category.</p><p>Then, in the year 1980, Nikon hit another milestone. It designed the Nikon F3 which was to be used by NASA astronauts in outer space expeditions. This camera needed to be big enough so that astronauts wearing bulky gloves could easily handle it and at the same time it had to be strong enough to work perfectly in zero gravity situations and withstand the strong rays of the Sun. NASA was very happy with the job done by Nikon and it got more cameras designed for itself in the coming years from the company.</p><p>During the 1990s, Nikon continued to innovate by bringing out better and more advanced SLR cameras. It came up with the NIKONOS RS, the world's first underwater auto focus SLR camera in the year 1992. The company also joined hands with Fuji Films and introduced the E2/E2S digital still cameras in 1995. As far as digital cameras were concerned, Nikon entered the digital arena in the year 1997 with the launch of its first digital camera, the COOLPIX100.</p><p>Today, the company has expanded itself further, and even opened factories in distant lands such as Poland and the Netherlands. It has entered new areas such as binoculars and telescopes and eyewear. Nikon is also considered to be one of the good makes as far as digital cameras are concerned. Over its 50 year history, Nikon has done a fascinating task of constantly innovating itself and bringing about new technologies in the market. here are the latest cameras by Nikon:</p><p>Digital SLR Cameras (D-Series): For advanced, professional users.</p><p>Coolpix Cameras: Ranging from 3-5 mega pixels, these are great for everyday users.</p><p>Kevin Rockwell worked as a network TV cameraman for 20 years shooting news and sports. Now a devoted fan of digital photography and video he works to gather information, tips and news for digital camera users. Oh and he loves to shoot pictures of his kids playing sports. <a target="_new" href="http://great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html">http://great-digital-cameras.com/gdcj.html</a>
A Guide to Underwater Cameras
There are two types of underwater camera systems: an ""amphibious"" camera, which is a self-contained waterproof system, and an SLR land camera with waterproof housing. Amphibious systems are small, compact, and easy to travel with, while SLRs offer more advanced features, such as auto-focus, advanced exposure control, and through-the-lens viewing.</p><p>The ""amphibious"" cameras are probably best for those of you who want a simple, easy-to-use point-and-shoot camera. Amphibious systems usually have a built-in lens and they will take pictures on land as well as underwater. They also have an automatic film load and advance and are generally compact, lightweight, and rugged.</p><p>If you are a more serious photographer and want the advantages of a single-lens reflex camera you will probably be happier with a land camera in waterproof underwater housing.</p><p>As a new underwater photographer you need to know the difference between taking pictures on land and underwater. The difference is what you are shooting through to take the picture. Air is transparent, whereas water is not. Light does not travel in a straight path underwater like it does in air. Water is denser and it includes particles of sand, plankton, and other debris which scatter, reflect, and absorb light.</p><p>You should know that all your underwater equipment needs and requires special care. Salt, sun, dirt and improper storage can damage a camera. Even though all your new stuff is made from rugged materials built for underwater use, it still needs to be rinsed in fresh water after every use. Saltwater should never be allowed to dry on the joints of the controls and metal fittings. Salt is your system's number one enemy. Do not rinse with a hose. The high pressure may actually force salt crystals and sand into crevices. Use only soft lens tissues or photographic lens cloths on the lenses.</p><p>The most important thing you need to know about your underwater camera care is how to clean and lubricate the O-ring after every use. The O-Ring creates a watertight seal to protect your equipment from water, and so it is very important. The seal must be flawless- with no scratches, cuts, sand, hair ? nothing on its surface. If it is not, the underwater photo equipment will be ruined. Water must be kept out! When in doubt about the sealing capability of an O-ring, always throw it out and replace with a new one.</p><p>Both your camera and your flash will need a watertight housing. You can use a flash fill-in to brighten underwater subjects at close range. Even with large flash units, though, light does not extend beyond 12 feet. The maximum effective distance of most flashes is four to five feet. Subjects farther away will not appear very colorful. Don't forget you need to wait for your flash to recycle.</p><p>Assess conditions underwater before you dive and set aperture and shutter speed before entering the water.</p><p>The best time to take pictures without using a flashgun is between 11 a.m. and 2 p.m., when the sun is overhead. To capture sunrays with the subject in silhouette, face the sun. Close-up shots of fish are best taken at night--the fish are sleepy and not as active</p><p>Shallow water near steep rocky shorelines, coral reefs and atolls, and areas near tidal streams are great places to photograph sea-life.</p><p><a target="_new" href="http://www.e-disposablecameras.com">Disposable Cameras Info</a> provides detailed information about digital, wedding, and underwater disposable cameras, as well as cheap and wholesale disposable cameras. Disposable Cameras Info is the sister site of <a target="_new" href="http://www.e-underwatercamera.com">Underwater Cameras Web</a>.
Top of the Line Digital Cameras
If you think that digital cameras are for snapshots only, then you obviously haven't heard about SLR (Single Lens Reflex) digital cameras. SLR is a type of camera which has one lens for composing the frame and capturing the image. SLR cameras are also known as TTL (through-the-lens) cameras.</p><p>An SLR camera displays an image through the viewfinder that is exactly the same image as the camera sees and is exactly the same image that the camera is going to record when you release the shutter.</p><p>An SLR camera provides a much more accurate image through the viewfinder than a digital camera produces on its LCD because the LCD does not faithfully reproduce the colors and light intensity that is actually entering the camera.</p><p>The top of the line SLR digital cameras rival the best film-based SLR cameras and are designed for serious hobbyists and professional photographers. Digital SLR cameras are much larger, bulkier, and heavier than traditional digital cameras.</p><p>The SLR uses a mirror that is located behind the lens as well as an optical device known as a pentaprism to channel the light that enters the camera's lens to the optical finder. When you release the shutter the mirror moves out of the way and the image is captured in the same way as any digital camera.</p><p>The better digital SLR cameras let you mount different lenses just like their film-based counterparts do. Many of your existing 35mm lens may be compatible with a digital SLR. If you have a large lens collection then you should definitely look for a digital SLR that is compatible with them.</p><p>Because the digital SLR cameras are more professional, they come with a hefty price tag. A 6-megapixel Nikon D100 runs around $2,000 and the 11-megapixel Canon 1D runs near $8,000. This is for the camera body only and does not include a lens! This is why I mentioned earlier that you should look for a digital camera that will mount your existing lens collection. Just a good quality zoom lens can run you at least $3,000 and can climb as high as $10,000 depending upon the features!</p><p>Of course, there are also starter-priced digital SLR cameras available. The Olympus E-20N, a 5.0-megapixel SLR camera, which includes a non-replaceable lens that is capable of duplicating a 35 mm to 140 mm lens, runs around $3500.</p><p>These prices are not out of line if you make your living shooting pictures. You can actually create additional revenue streams when you shoot digital pictures, instead of film-based ones, by offering image enhancement options and all sorts of digital FX options for thee prospective bride and groom's on their treasured wedding album.</p><p>If all of this sounds a bit too expensive for your blood, then you'll probably find all of the digital camera that you'll ever need way down in the $99 to $500 price range and you'll never have to worry about buying extra lenses. Digital SLR cameras aren't for everyone but, if they're for you, then there are plenty of models to look at. SOme of the best are made by Canon, Olympus and Nikon which are familiar names in the photography world.</p><p>Warren Lynch is a Professional Commercial Photographer located in Louisville, Ky. Sign up for "The Digital Dose" and receive Digital Photography tips every other week absolutely FREE! <a target="_new" href="http://www.photopheed.com">http://www.photopheed.com</a>
Digital Film Processing is Really the Only Option for Truly Quality Prints
Digital photography has taken off like wildfire these days, primarily due to its ease and quality in its digital film processing. With a good digital camera, it's as though you're using the very best Kodak film for every single one of your digital photos. Moreover, digital film processing can be done from the comfort of your own home with the right digital film processing software or with digital photo developing online.</p><p>The most standard form of digital film processing is digital photos of 4x5 film processing. By using this size, you can make sure to get the very best in cost and quality, as many digital cameras are designed to function their very best at that level. Moreover, if cost is your primary concern, then you'll enjoy the advantage that comes with bulk digital photo developing for all of your parties and other important occasions where many people will be wanting copies.</p><p>Just like a standard camera with film, digital cameras use a lens and a shutter, except instead recording your image on film, it is captured electronically by way of a sensor, which converts it into a digital file. This file is saved on a memory device, which is frequently removable. This way, you can choose where you'd like to keep your pictures, and specifically what sort of digital film processing is best for you.</p><p>For example, some of your digital photos may be fine if they're kept in digital form on your computer, but others, such as wedding photos, may require better quality digital film processing. This allows you to print your digital pictures on regular paper, photo quality paper, use a home digital film processing printer, or even take it for the professionals to manage, as you would regular film.</p><p>When it is your regular digital photography that you'll be digital film processing, however, you'll love the great benefits of having your digital photo quickly, easily, and accurately.</p><p>Dave Gonzalez<BR> <a target="_new" href="http://www.digital-film-developing.com/">http://www.digital-film-developing.com/</a>
วันเสาร์ที่ 27 กันยายน พ.ศ. 2551
Canon-Powershot-A80 Review
Last month we bought the Canon Powershot A80 online for about $325 including shipping after looking at digital cameras for about a month. It had all the features we were looking for in our price range and the stylish gleaming metal case didn't hurt either. We looked at a few other cameras, notably the Fujifilm FinePix S7000, but settled on the Powershot and we are glad that we did.</p><p>The Canon Powershot A80 is a 4-megapixel compact digital still camera with a high quality, swiveling, flip-out LCD; built-in flash and a 3x Optical / 3.6x Digital /11x Combined Zoom. It has a Shutter Speed of 15 - 1/2,000 seconds, and a variety of shooting modes and photo effects built in. It stores photos on a Type I compact flash (CF) Card and is powered by non-proprietary AA batteries</p><p>The camera can be used in a simple point and click manner that is trivial for novice users but is expandable with optional lens adapter's and full manual control. Its ready to use after a very short power up, the zoom lever is very smooth, and the menuing system is easy to use. Photoshop found the camera's USB connection right away and we were downloadig photos within minutes of plugging it in.</p><p>On the downside it does have a noticeable shutter lag and it does not do a great job capturing video, small quibbles that do not detract from the overall usefulness and quality of the camera.</p><p>Even though the Powershot A80 is a joy to use, the real value is the photo quality. Indoor and outdoor photos are exposed well and have excellent saturation. Our biggest problem with previous digital cameras was jpeg artifacting - with the Canon A80 this is not even an issue. Family and friends raved about the quality of the photos that we posted online and with very few exceptions we have been exceedingly happy with the image quality of the photos taken with Powershot A80. We've used it in every type of lighting situation imaginable and have come away impressed in every single instance. The strong flash is a big plus in low light situations.</p><p>In conclusion we think that the Canon Powershot A80 is an excellent value for the money. Forget the numerous features - it's worth the money for the picture quality alone. If you are in the market for a small digital camera priced under $500, you could do a lot worse than this Canon Powershot A80.</p><p>This article was originally posted on <a target="_new" href="http://www.imslack.com">IMSlack.com</a> and was written by James Kendall of <a target="_new" href="http://www.copacetix.com">Copacetix Digital Creation</a>.
Nude Art Photography
Nude photography is the genre of art photography, whose subject is the representation of the naked (full nude) or partially naked (half nude) human body.</p><p>The aesthetic value of nude photography and its boundary to erotic photography can only be determined with difficulty and inter-subjectively and is also affected by its numerous overlaps with pornography. In consequence, nude photography and erotic photography always find themselves branded in multiple ways, and labelled as works of artistic freedom, aesthetics, kitsch, junk or provocation. The boundaries of nude photography, erotic photography and pornography are so undefined and continuously changing that they are always determined and defined by the subjective moral view of the individual and the generally accepted cultural confines of "customs and tradition".</p><p>Whether the picture itself is art or junk always lies in the eye of the beholder. One (subjective) definition of the worth of a nude photograph is: "A nude photo is then good, when the Model shows it around at the coffee table at her grandmother's birthday party and receives positive feedback." (G?nter Rinnhofer) Other definitions have been by far more controversial. For Horst Werner this art form has always been about provocation and evoking of emotions. He prefers disgust, shock and aversion (as evoked for example by his photographs of nudes at a cemetery or of disabled people) to indifference, which in his opinion, is often the only reaction generated by other, more conventional art styles. Additionally, it is nowadays no longer such a taboo to depict the primary sex features of a human being. However, in contrast to pornography, nude photography does not actively pursue to excite the audience, although this does not exclude that it is consumed with this intention and effect.</p><p>Tasteful nude photography is often regarded as high skilled photography as besides technical knowledge and the ability to manipulate light the nude photographer also needs strong communication skills and the ability to build a positive relationship with his model. A modelling contract between photographer and model often includes additional remuneration to the model besides payment and publication rights.</p><p><b>Subgenres and Subjets</b></p><p>"Feminine nudity must be given to men by the teaspoonful, not with a scoop." (Coco Chanel)</p><p>Nude photography divides into three basic forms: the "classic" full nude with a simple background, full nude model where model is completely naked; the detailed nude depicting certain details of the body, abstracting and making them anonymous, and emphasising the forms and structures of the nude; and finally the half nude, where the model is partially clothed or partially wrapped with accessories.</p><p><b>History and development</b></p><p>The nude is a classic subject in art. Already the early high cultures (Egypt, Crete, India among others) knew nude representations. Its development into other representation forms can be pursued from Greek clay to the art of the middle ages and on to the European art of the modern age. Since the renaissance, the study of the nude human body is an intrinsic part of art education at art academies.</p><p>Since around 1847 the nude has also become the object of photography, the first nude photographers including Philippe Debussy, E. Delacroix, Eugene Durieu and B. Braquehais. Models were both professionals and prostitutes and photographs were both artistic and "spicy", which often invited the aversion of moral and law enforcement officers.</p><p><b>Important Nude Photographers</b> ? Bettina Rheims David Bailey ? Eric Kroll Helmut Newton ? Hans-Peter Muff ? Jan Saudek Meister der Koloriertechnik (kolorieren) ? Jeanloup Sieff Man Ray ? Paul Outerbridge Petter Hegre ? Richard Kern Roy Stuart ? Robert Mapplethorpe Sam Haskins ? Uwe Ommer G?nter Blum </p><p>This article was first published by Maria A. Novatschkova, art critic at <a target="_new" href="http://www.poster-art-gallery.com/nude-photography/fine-art-nude-photography.php">Poster-art-gallery.com > nude photography</a>
Freelance Photography: How to Begin Your Career
Photography is a vast world. There are many different types of photography and many different kinds of people that enjoy it. It's a hobby that be relatively inexpensive or one that you can invest a lot of money on. Photos are so special because they give us memories of times and places and events in our lives. We can hold onto these memories forever with a photograph.</p><p>As much as people love photos, many people love taking them even more. Whether it's a mother who takes photos at every of her children's moments in life (first smile, first step, first spaghetti meal) or maybe it's the father who never forgets his camera for a football or basketball game, or maybe it's the young girl who loves nature hikes with her camera; these people are not exceptions. They all have an eye for those special moments and they all appreciate the camera's ability to capture that moment and freeze it in time forever.</p><p>- What is Freelance Photography?</p><p>What if you love photography so much you wish you could do it for a living? I mean, you actually get paid for your photographs! But you work solely for yourself, selling each photo or series of photos individually. You don't have a boss. You work sometimes on assignment and you may sell to magazines. That is freelance photography.</p><p>Freelance photography may be your entire career or it may start out as something you do in your spare time but begin making money from it. It's just like freelance writing in this sense that many people turn it into a career and enjoy the freedom of working essentially for themselves on their own time and making money doing something they love doing anyway.</p><p>- How to Build a Portfolio</p><p>To start getting jobs as a freelance photographer, you need a portfolio. A portfolio will show samples of your work. Even if you have never had photographs published or publicly displayed, you can start a portfolio of your best work and then add onto it if you win photography contests or start receiving paid work.</p><p>- How to Get Jobs</p><p>As we mentioned, building a portfolio is the first step in submitting your work for pay but when it comes right down to it, it's the quality of the photo that will determine if you get paid for it. Some people have more of a natural talent for taking great pictures than others but it is a skill that anyone can learn. There are schools dedicated to the art of photography and you can even get a degree in it. If you are just getting started, you can look into classes provided by your local community center or community college. Some cities have photography groups that meet to share photos and tips. There are also many groups online dedicated to photography and freelance photography.</p><p>You need to view as many famous photographs as possible. Take a look at what is getting published and compare it to your own photos. This allows you to compare and learn from other's work. It takes more than just point and shoot to get a great photo. You need to learn about focus, lighting, colors and backgrounds and much more.</p><p>Once you start learning about photography and creating a portfolio, you can start submitting your photos to contests and magazines. Get a list of photography markets and start submitting to ones that accept your type of photos. Don't expect to make it to the big times right away. Few people actually achieve this but you can start small and eventually make your way into a nice living from freelance photography.</p><p>Looking for information about Photography? Go to: <a target="_new" href="http://www.asaphotography.com">http://www.asaphotography.com</a> 'ASA Photography' is published by Colin Hartness - An excellent resource for Photography! Check out more Photography articles at: <a target="_new" href="http://www.asaphotography.com/archive">http://www.asaphotography.com/archive</a>
How to take Great Photos of Your Pet
We all love our animals. They do such funny, adorable, and cute things. But somehow when that camera comes out they run and hide or they just seem to always be pointed away from the camera when you push the button. Well here are some tips to help you have a better chance at getting great photos of your pet.</p><p>1. Don't wake your pet out of deep sleep and attempt to coerce him into performing for the camera. It won't happen. Try to take photos of your pet during their routine playtime.</p><p>2. If there is enough daylight to take photos then turn the flash off. My cat has learned to close his eyes just before the flash goes off. He learned that little trick quick too! Many times a camera flash is just too bright for them, that's why they point away from you when they know that you're taking photos.</p><p>3. Don't try to get them looking into the camera. If there is someone around who can play with your pet just get a shot of them playing with someone else. You can have the photo with the person and the pet or get close to crop the person out of the shot.</p><p>4. If your pet always runs away from you every time you pull the camera out try leaving the camera sit out where it can be seen. Take photos of other things in the home and try turning the flash off.</p><p>5. Be prepared to grab your camera and take photos when your pet is ready, read "doing something cute." I've been able to get some of the best photos of my cat when he's just doing something on his own.</p><p>Remember don't put pressure on your animal to perform for the camera. Think more on the lines of catch them in their natural habitat. Our pets want to make us happy and you can easily confuse them by pressuring them to look good for the camera. Also be prepared to take a whole lot of bad photos for that one really good one.</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Copyright 2004 Kelly Paal</p><p>Kelly Paal is a Freelance Nature and Landscape Photographer, exhibiting nationally and internationally. Recently she started her own business Kelly Paal Photography (<a href="http://www.kellypaalphotography.com" target="_new">www.kellypaalphotography.com</a>). She has an educational background in photography, business, and commercial art. She enjoys applying graphic design and photography principles to her web design.
The Mysterious Powerful Element of a Picture That Sells
A photo buyer calls for a picture of pigs. It could be about anything. A hundred responses go online and one lucky so-and-so gets the sale. That's 99 pictures deemed to be second, and that's no good in any race.</p><p>So, what is it about that winning picture that produced a sale? It may good lighting, it may be striking content... but hey, all the pictures submitted were about the same topic, so eliminate that one. Let's face it, there could be a million reasons for the selection of that winner, but there isn't!!</p><p>The winning shot is unusual. It's different from the rest. It's got something the others just don't have. It's got oomph. It's got pizzazz. Call it what you will' it's got that winning streak that just knocks spots of the competition. It has? Well what the heck is it? Tell me, and we'll bottle it.</p><p>It might be stunning exposure. Well it might. That certainly helps. In fact, exposure IS a factor, it must be spot on. However, that's not the killer factor. Picture researchers, editors and publishers don't set out to look for stunning exposures. No. That's not it. There is something else, an elusive factor that underpins every sellable photo. It's not something you can find by playing blind man's bluff either. If you want to sell photos You have to recognize it, pursue it, capture it, master it and make it work for you.</p><p>It there for all to see in practically every photo that sells and yet most people and even many photographers just don't see it. How can something so obvious be invisible to a creative eye? It's a mystery. I don't understand it. When I look at the range of submissions for any photo request, my heart sinks. Most photos betray a complete absence of this elusive essential quality. They are duff!</p><p>Shots taken so far away from the subject that life-size objects are mere pimples. Boring views that have 5% coverage of the intended and desired theme. Constant repetition of the same unimaginative angle. Yes, you've guessed it. I'm talking about composition.</p><p>If you want to sell photos, for pity's sake THINK about what you shoot. The first angle of view MAY be the best one, but I doubt it. The old gunfighter adage ..no matter how fast your are...seems to apply to photography also.</p><p>Stalk around your intended subject, look at it from all angles, make mental photos before committing one to film or digital memory, as the case may be. Don't TAKE pictures MAKE them. Fill the screen with powerful compelling artwork. Look for interesting shapes, textures, colours in the most fascinating combination possible, given the lighting conditions and your time constraints.</p><p>How you compose your photo says everything about you, so train your eye and mind to maximise your artistic ability. When you shoot in pursuit of beauty, you fulfil yourself. When called upon to make pictures of mundane everyday scenes, you will bring a eagle eye to scour the most pleasing elements of vision and combine them in a most powerful way. You will always be an unpredictable photographer who can capture unusual shots.</p><p>Shed the snakeskin of normality and kick out the usual suspects in favour of the racy, the dangerous, the exciting and discover how to enjoy your using your camera, finding the unusual angles and great whacking compositions that draw photo-buyers to you like flies to a honey pot.</p><p>You just can't achieve that by shooting the same stuff as the average Joe. Be a special Joe! Be successful and you'll sell your photos with ease.</p><p>About The Author</p><p>One of a series of articles by Robert Hartness, successful freelance and author of an hot-linked, flip-over, e-book, published on the web in October 2004. It offers a step-by-step guide to those on the threshold of freelance photography and is illustrated with 40+ published photographs. Acclaimed as a great reference source for serious freelancers. More information and order link - <a href="http://www.cashfromyourcamera.com" target="_new">http://www.cashfromyourcamera.com</a>
Home Run Baseball Photography Tips
Strike one! Strike two! Strike three!</p><p>Baseball! America's Pastime, and a sport growing in popularity throughout the world, where the Boys of Summer slug it out. A baseball game is the perfect way to spend a lazy summer afternoon, plus it provides opportunities to take photos that last a lifetime.</p><p>While many claim the sport of baseball is a slow-paced affair, when action does occur, it can happen very swiftly, almost too fast for an unskilled photographer to shoot the photos they desire. Baseballs fly quickly when hit or thrown, and timing the action for when to take a digital photograph requires split-second reflexes. Thus, before you plan on taking photos at a baseball game, you may wish to read the following advice:</p><p>1) First, make sure you are allowed to bring your digital camera to the baseball game. Some ballparks have no restrictions, others on the zoom length, some on using flash, and some may not allow you into the baseball game at all with your camera!</p><p>2) Change your camera settings to take the quickest photographs possible while still providing plenty of light for the photograph. You'll need to read your camera's manual on how to change these settings; for example, consider saving photos as JPG instead of RAW to take photos faster.</p><p>Just remember that the quicker the shutter speed, the less light enters the camera to take the picture. Thus, you'll need to compromise picture speed and the amount of light to take great photos. That is why baseball games work well with photography - many games are played on sunny days or in well-lit domes or stadiums that allow you to take crisp, high-action photos.</p><p>3) Before going to a big league ballpark, make sure you know the rules and nuances of the game. Practice taking photos at a minor-league, college, or high school baseball game. The stakes aren't quite as high if you miss a shot, and taking your camera to a game will give you more insight into when action occurs and when players just stand around.</p><p>4) Have extra batteries and digital camera memory handy and practice switching both out quickly before the game! A three and a half hour game can put a tremendous strain on even the most power-miserly camera, and more often than not you will have to switch out power or memory in the middle of an inning.</p><p>5) Don't worry if you miss a shot! Unless you have tons of digital camera memory, you may not be able to continuously shoot photograph after photograph. If you miss a key pitch, the swing of a bat, or a forced out, don't get angry! More often than not, new opportunities will arise for great photographs.</p><p>6) Study the lineup first. Know who are the key players and those who barely know how to swing a bat. Likewise, learn who has loose hands in the outfield and who is likely to win a Gold Glove. Focus your attention on the stars as they most likely will make the best photographs, but don't be so drawn to celebrity that you miss a role player making a crucial steal or diving catch that wins the game for their team!</p><p>7) When the opening lineup starts, look at the dugout. If you're rooting for the home team, the beginning of the game is a great time to get player photographs as they are running out onto the field. If not, take photographs during the middle of the inning. If you don't get the perfect photo, delete bad photographs during lull times and try later during the game.</p><p>8) To take a picture of a swinging batter that will last a lifetime, do the following:</p><p>*) Preparation is the key. First, before the game, know how to operate your digital camera. Practice focusing the camera and quickly deleting unused photos - sometimes you can delete an unwanted photo before it is completely saved to the camera's memory.</p><p>*) Before the pitch, focus your viewfinder on the batter's box and try not to cut out any of the batter's body. Zoom in as appropriate, but remember the more you zoom in, the slower the potential shutter speed needed to take a clear photo.</p><p>*) Anticipate shutter lag. Lock your focus before the pitch; this usually is done by pressing the shutter button down half-way.</p><p>*) Time it... time it... then as soon as the ball is about to hit the bat, press down fully on the shutter button.</p><p>*) If the pitch is a strike or the swing is not one to be remembered, cancel the save so your picture is not written to memory. This way, you can save room for other photos.</p><p>9) Look around for photo opportunities not directly related to the action. Take a photograph of the grounds crew cleaning the bases and raking the dirt between innings. Get a few shots of the crowd. Take a picture of the scoreboard. Look at the surrounding area. If you want to remember the full experience of a baseball game years from now, you should take advantage of one of the best features of a digital camera - the ability to take lots and lots of photographs - and shoot photographs showcasing the FULL baseball experience.</p><p>10) Take a break during the game! You came to the baseball game to enjoy the spectacle, not just to take pictures, right? Designate a few innings as photo-free time where you just sit back, munch on a hot dog, drink a soda, and soak in the environment.</p><p>Remember to study your digital camera manual first and practice, practice, practice! Follow these ten tips and you'll be on your way to taking "home run" baseball photographs in no time.</p><p>Copyright 2005 Andrew Malek.</p><p>Andrew Malek is the owner of the MalekTips computer and technology help site at <a target="_new" href="http://malektips.com/">http://malektips.com/</a>. Want more great tips on buying and using digital cameras? Visit <a target="_new" href="http://malektips.com/camera/">http://malektips.com/camera/</a> for more free digital photography advice.
How a Digital Camera Works
The digital camera is not something of a magic box that came out of the blue and made wonders! The digital camera is very much like the conventional analog camera, but the technology has been altered. It also contains most of the associated components that the conventional camera contains, like lens and a shutter for letting in light, however instead of reaching a photosensitive film, the light is made to fall upon array of image sensors or photosensitive cells. Much of the differences are like this, yet most of it still remains in oblivion for the ordinary people. And it order that the digital camera gets its true respect, it is necessary to explore these areas of truth and reveal them in light.</p><p>Looking a bit more in details about the working of the fantastic device, the digital camera. As a continuation of the above lines, it can be further investigated that the sensor array is basically a microchip about 10 mm across. Every image sensor is a charged-couple device (CCD) converting light into electric charges, and is essentially a silicon chip used to measure light. These charges are stored as analog data that are then converted to digital via a device called an analog to digital converter (ADC). Over the chip are present a collection of very small light-sensitive diodes, named photosites, or pixels that convert light (or more scientifically, photons) into electrical charges called electrons. The pixels are very much light sensitive, therefore with brighter light striking them, produces greater build up of electrical charges. Each 1000 array receptor creates 1 pixel, and every pixel corresponds to some information stored. The light enters the digital camera via the lens, which is the same mechanism as the conventional analog camera. And this light hits the CCD when the photographer presses the shutter button. The shutter opens and thereby illuminates every pixel, however with various intensities.</p><p>Taking a look apart, it can be observed that quite a few digital cameras use CMOS (meaning complementary metal oxide semiconductor, a technology of manufacturing these microchips) technology based microchips as image sensors. The basic advantage is that the CMOS sensors are appreciably cheaper and simpler to fabricate than CCDs. Another great advantage from CMOS sensors is that these take very less power compared to other technology, which adds up to the fact as to their extensive use, and can thus even support the implementation of additional circuitry on the same chip like ADC, some control units etc. Thus it can be stated that CMOS technology based cameras are small, light, cheap and also energy efficient, yet at the cost of some amount of image quality.</p><p>However the common trend remains that all cameras of the mega pixel range and higher up use CCD chips instead of CMOS. This is because of the fact of picture quality only, leaving aside the price differences.</p><p>This is basically the fact about how digital cameras work! Having known this much difference would not come in the photographing expertise of the users, but it always feels a kind of satisfaction on understanding the inner depths of a device that is so close to the eyes!</p><p>About The Author</p><p>Jakob Jelling is the founder of <a href="http://www.snapjunky.com" target="_new">http://www.snapjunky.com</a>. Visit his digital camera guide and learn how to take better pictures with your digicam.
Safari Wildlife Photography Top Four Tips
I've been practising wildlife photography on safari for over twenty years now in places like the Kruger National Park, Chobe, Okavango Delta, and Hwange game reserves and these four tips have been indispensable in making sure that I get some decent wildlife photographs.</p><p><b>1. The Right Equipment</b></p><p>I believe that you can't beat the quality of film but that digital offers <a target="_new" href="http://www.african-safari-pictures.com/wildlife-photography.html">wildlife photography practitioners</a> more options at a better cost so for the purposes of a safari trip a digital camera is your best bet.</p><p>It should have some of the following characteristics to qualify as a good safari camera.</p><p>There should be little or no lag between the time you depress the shutter release button and the photo is taken. Some of the compact digitals on the market today suffer from this affliction and it's not ideal when you come across fast moving wildlife subjects.</p><p>It should be ready to take photographs at a moments notice because that is sometimes all the time you have before an animal disappears into the undergrowth. No long power up cycle.</p><p>Due to the fact that most of your nocturnal wildlife sightings on safari will occur during early morning and dusk it needs to be able to function well in low light conditions as well as bright sunlight during the day for the diurnal animals.</p><p>Lenses should have a focal length of at least 70mm for adequate wildlife photography and an image stabiliser is not essential but a great help in eliminating blur.</p><p>Another piece of equipment that is essential however is a deadrest in the form of a beanbag or a window mounted tripod that you can rest the camera on to help stabilise the long lenses. Handholding a long lens will often lead to blurring and the dead rest will prevent this. A tripod or monopod is impractical because you will be taking photos from the safari vehicle for most of the time.</p><p><b>2. The Best Wildlife Photography Areas</b></p><p>You can have all the right equipment and the best wildlife photography talent in the world but it won't mean much if you can't find any wildlife to take pictures of.</p><p>Some areas in Africa are better in terms of safari photography than others. The top five for getting excellent overall wildlife picture opportunities are:</p><p>Kenya - Masai Mara<br> Tanzania - Serengeti<br> South Africa - Kruger National Park<br> Botswana - Moremi<br> Namibia - Etosha</p><p><b>3. Patience and Luck</b></p><p>Everything comes to him who waits is a very relevant saying for wildlife photography. Patience will help you get better photographs because you will be able to take pictures of animal behaviour that you would otherwise have missed.</p><p>The role of luck mustn't be underestimated either. There is no guarantee of what you will encounter in a game reserve and whatever you do get to see and photograph is a matter of a little bit of planning and a lot of good fortune.</p><p><b>4. Light and Composition</b></p><p>Because you are at the mercy of the elements in wildlife photography, you don't have too much control over the light. Flash is of no use when the animal is at a distance and you can't wait for better light conditions because the subject could move off at any moment so you need to make the best of what you have.</p><p>And due to the habits of nocturnal species you will find yourself taking lots of pictures in low light conditions at dawn and dusk which is why a fast lens and a dead rest is essential. Using bracketing (changing the exposure by one stop up and down) will also help get the optimal exposure in the available light.</p><p>What you do have some control over is the position of the safari vehicle which can be moved to change the aspect of light that is falling on the animal somewhat but even that is sometimes not possible because in most reserves you are not allowed to go off-road and moving might scare the subject away.</p><p>Composition is something you do have more control of however and you can apply the rule of thirds and framing using the available vegetation just as well as in any other form of photography.</p><p>Be especially careful using the autofocus on your camera because it will cheerfully focus on a twig or tuft of grass close to your animal subject and spoil your composition.</p><p>You will also need to make your compositional decisions quickly as wildlife often doesn't hang about long waiting for you to make your mind up so it pays to have a solid foundation in the basics.</p><p>Collection of <a target="_new" href="http://www.african-safari-pictures.com/">African safari pictures</a> depicting most of the animals you can see on safari like lion, leopard, cheetah, elephant, crocodile, chimpanzee, baboon, gorilla, rhino and many more species.</p><p>The five best <a target="_new" href="http://www.african-safari-pictures.com/african-lion-safari.html">African lion safari</a> destinations will give you some excellent opportunities to take photographs of the king of the jungle.
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